How to Clone Cannabis

Co-authored by Jamie Corroon, ND, MPH

Last Updated: October 12, 2022 References

What are cannabis clones? Clones are just cuttings from established cannabis plants, which are called “mother plants." For beginners and experienced growers alike, growing from clones offers a variety of benefits. You have total control over the plant genetics you pick, and you don’t have to deal with the delicate seedling stage. In other words, it’s easier, faster, and more precise. Roll up your sleeves and let’s get started by taking your cuttings, rooting them, and finally transplanting your cannabis clones.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Taking Cuttings

1
Pick a plant with a high yield. Since your clones will have the same genetics as the mother plant, you want your initial cuttings to come from hardy stock. Try to choose plants that you know produce a lot of buds and grow to your desired size and height.^{[1]
X
Research source}
- If your mother plant hasn’t flowered before, pick a plant with lots of branching.
- You can also consider the desired THC or CBD content in your clones and the aroma/flavor of the mother plant.^{[2]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Jamie Corroon, ND, MPH
  Medical Director of the Center for Medical Cannabis Education
  Expert Interview. 10 March 2020.}
- Choose indica strains for cannabis with a calming, relaxing effect and sativa strains for an uplifting, energetic effect.^{[3]
  X
  Trustworthy Source
  PubMed Central
  Journal archive from the U.S. National Institutes of Health
  Go to source}
2
Take your cuttings from a plant in the vegetative stage. The vegetative stage begins when the plant is 3-4 weeks old, and the stage lasts for up to 16 weeks before the plant starts blooming.^{[4]
X
Research source} While you can technically take a cutting from any plant, plants in the flowering stage take weeks or even months longer to clone!^{[5]
X
Research source}
- Ideally, pick a mother plant that’s at least 5 weeks old from seedling and has multiple side shoots.^{[6]
  X
  Research source}
- If you pick a plant that’s too young, the cutting will have hollow inner walls, and it’ll quickly wilt.
Advertisement
3
Choose straight branches with at least 3 nodes.^{[7]
X
Research source} Straight branches will be easier to grow in trays, and they won’t block light from other cuttings. For better rooting success, take your cuttings from the bottom of the plant (where the plant concentrates rooting hormones).^{[8]
X
Research source}
- To identify nodes, look for the areas where new growth (leaves and buds) shoot off from the plant.^{[9]
  X
  Research source}
- Pick cuttings that are about 6–10 inches (15–25 cm) long.^{[10]
  X
  Research source}
4
Use a knife to cut each branch at a 45° angle.^{[11]
X
Research source} Make your cut just below the 3rd node of the branch you want to take. Remove any leaves growing near the node closest to the bottom of your cutting. Getting rid of these leaves lets your plant retain more water.^{[12]
X
Research source}
- Knives or razors create a cleaner cut that does less damage to the stem than scissors.^{[13]
  X
  Research source}
5
Put your cuttings in water immediately. Place your cuttings into a jar of clean water to keep them hydrated. Water also prevents air bubbles from forming inside the stem.^{[14]
X
Research source} You can keep them in the jar for several hours if you need to harvest other cuttings.^{[15]
X
Research source}
- If you don’t immediately have water available, you can set the cuttings down on a clean glass or ceramic plate. It’s important to use clean materials to prevent fungus from attacking your delicate cuttings.^{[16]
  X
  Research source}

Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Rooting Your Plants

1
Dip the cut ends in rooting hormone as soon as possible. Apply rooting hormone to the open ends of the plant just before you set them into their rooting medium. Rooting hormone encourages the plant to start producing root cells instead of regular green plant cells.^{[17]
X
Research source} You can use either a gel or powder rooting hormone.^{[18]
X
Research source}
- Don’t get the rooting hormone on the foliage or it can damage the leaves.^{[19]
  X
  Research source}
2
Mist your rooting medium and push your cuttings in.^{[20]
X
Research source} Use a rockwool rooting cube for a popular medium that locks in moisture.^{[21]
X
Research source} Lightly spray the rockwool with water so it’s moist all the way through. Dig a small hole into the rooting medium just deep enough so the branch will stand up straight and just wide enough for the plant stem’s thickness. Place your cutting into the hole, and lightly push the soil around the plant stem to hold it in place.^{[22]
X
Research source}
- If you don’t have rockwool, use potting soil or even water (for a hydroponic growth process).^{[23]
  X
  Research source}
- To keep your plants easy to transport and care for simultaneously, root them in growing trays rather than individual small pots.
3
Close your plants in a plastic humidity dome for the first 48 hours. Lightly mist the plants with a spray bottle once they’re in their rooting medium. Then, put the plants under a plastic humidity dome to reduce the risk of your plants drying out.^{[24]
X
Research source}
4
Keep your plants under low-intensity fluorescent lighting for 18 hours a day. Use T8 or T12 bulbs, since excessive light can cause your plants to “stretch” or (grow way too quickly between nodes).^{[25]
X
Research source} To keep your cuttings happy, put the lights about 30 inches (76 cm) away from the plants.^{[26]
X
Research source}
- Leave the cuttings in their rooting cubes until white hairs start to sprout up from the cubes. Then, it’ll be time to transplant.^{[27]
  X
  Research source}

Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Transplanting

1
Fill 1 gallon (3.8 L) pots with potting medium.^{[28]
X
Research source} Choose a soilless peat- or sphagnum-based mixture, because soil is rarely sold sterilized and can contain pests and fungus.^{[29]
X
Research source} Break apart the chunks of your potting medium. Water the medium so that it’s moist all the way through.
- Fill the pots up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the lip.^{[30]
  X
  Research source}
- Then, gently press the soil down so it’s 1.5–2 inches (3.8–5.1 cm) from the lip. The space prevents you from overflowing the pot.
2
Dig a hole in each pot the size of the clone’s current rockwool rooting cube. Ideally, the soil level in your pot will sit flush with the top of your rooting cube. This prevents the cutting’s roots from drying out, while preventing excess moisture from getting to the cutting's stem.^{[31]
X
Research source}
- If the rooting cube becomes totally exposed when you water the plant, just add a little more soil.
3
Plant 1 clone in each pot. Squeeze the rockwool rooting cube out of your tray. Place the cube into the hole you dug. Backfill any empty space or gaps with soil. Make sure the entire bottom of the cube is in contact with the soil medium around it.^{[32]
X
Research source}
- Thoroughly water the plant to get rid of air bubbles.
- Your clones are now ready to keep growing and thriving!
4
Water intensely for the first week after transplanting. Make sure the original rockwool cube is moist all the way through. Every time you water, you should see 20% of the water coming out as runoff.^{[33]
X
Research source}
- Keep your water under 70 °F (21 °C).
- For more tips on caring for your plants as they grow, check out this article.