How to Dye Your Hair With Semi Permanent Hair Dye

Co-authored by Karen Leight

Last Updated: February 15, 2022 References Approved

Semi-permanent hair dyes are a significantly less harsh alternative to traditional dyes that won’t damage your hair. Instead of penetrating the core of the hair, semi-permanent coat the hair's surface and wash out over time. In addition to being safer and easier to use, semi-permanent dyes also come in a greater variety of bright, bold colors. If you’re interested in being a little more adventurous with your look, semi-permanent hair dye may be right for you.^{[1]
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Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Choosing Your Dye

1
Find the color you want. There are many popular brands and hundreds of different colors to choose from. Semi-permanent dyes can be found in a variety of places, ranging from grocery stores to specialized fashion shops, with the biggest selection at beauty supply stores. Pick the color that’s your favorite, matches your wardrobe best, and/or is most flattering for your eye color and skin tone. Semi-permanent dyes work on all hair colors, but show up brightest on light hair. On very dark hair, though, they will appear as a very subtle sheen.
2
Bleach your hair if necessary. Bleaching hair will make the color turn out brighter on all hair types.^{[3]
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Expert Source

Karen Leight
Professional Hair Stylist
Expert Interview. 13 November 2020.} If you want intense, bright colors and you have darker hair, you will need to bleach it. Just keep in mind that bleaching may damage your hair.^{[4]
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Expert Source

Karen Leight
Professional Hair Stylist
Expert Interview. 13 November 2020.}

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3
Perform a patch test. A patch test is an easy way to check for allergens at home. This step is very important, especially if you have sensitive skin. If you go straight to dyeing your whole head without checking, you may end up with an itchy scalp or permanent hair loss.
- Dab a small amount of dye onto a cotton adhesive pad and place it somewhere on your skin that isn’t too sensitive or typically exposed like your upper back.
- Leave the patch on for however long you plan on leaving the dye in your hair (usually an hour).
- Remove the patch and rinse the dye from your skin.
- Wait another 48 hours before dyeing your hair.
- Do not use this dye if your skin experiences itching, redness, or swelling. If your skin starts itching while the patch is still on, remove it immediately and scrub away the dye with soap and water.^{[5]
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4
Do a strand test. Select a small strand of hair that is not on the surface of your hairdo. Dye this strand following the instructions on the bottle.^{[6]
X
Research source} This step can be skipped if you don’t care about the exact shade of your new hair color. If you’ve never bleached your hair before, you may want to do a strand test with both your bleaching method and then with the dye.

Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Dyeing Your Hair

1
Wash your hair with clarifying shampoo and blow dry it completely. Normally you should avoid using a blow dryer, as it can dry out and damage your hair. However, the drier your hair, the better your dye will soak in. Don’t condition your hair until after the dye has been applied and rinsed out.
2
Protect your skin and clothes. While semi-permanent dyes eventually wash out of hair, they can be fairly difficult to remove from other materials like most fabrics. Semi-permanent dye is usually easy to remove from skin with a good scrubbing, but the process may take a few days. It's less work to prevent making a mess than cleaning it up later.
- Wear some clothes that you don't mind staining.
- Put a towel down on the floor in the area where you’re working.
- Wear exam gloves.
- Place a thin layer of petroleum jelly on the skin along your hairline.
3
Figure out color placement. You can dye all of your hair the same shade or you can get more creative. Here are a few options to consider:
- Dye only your highlights. Many people with dark hair go for this look with bright colors.
- Dye just the ends. This is called the "dip dye" look, since it seems like the hair has been dipped in paint. Section off your hair with plastic clips and you can use multiple colors for this method.
- Two colors from the same brand can be mixed. You can dye your tips one color, the hair near your roots another, and mix the two in the middle for an “ombré” look.
- Try a wild, multi-colored look or make a pattern by keeping certain sections of your hair un-dyed. Put a little conditioner on the parts of your hair that you want protected.
4
Apply the hair dye. Place a thick amount of hair dye wherever you want it. The best way to do this varies based on your style:
- If you’re dyeing a large area or your whole head, the best way to do this is by massaging the dye in by hand. Grab a palm full of dye and work it into your hair as if you were shampooing. If your hair is long, you will need to do this a few times with more dye to spread the color evenly throughout. You can also try dyeing thicker hair in sections.
- If you’re dyeing a smaller section, use a special tools called a tint brushes. Dip the brush into the dye and "paint" your hair. This will help you to both control where the color goes and make sure all your hair is coated. Go over each section a few times to make sure the dye is even.
5
Let the dye set. How long you should leave it in for will vary by brand, but 30 minutes to an hour is typical. Unlike permanent dyes, which contain harsh chemicals that can damage your hair and skin, there is usually no "too long" with semi-permanent colors. If you want to leave your work area while the dye sets, put your hair in a shower cap to keep from making a mess.
6
Rinse out the dye. Rinsing in the sink will reduce the chance of dyeing your skin but may be inconvenient. Rinsing in the shower is usually fine, even with dark colors.
- Soak your hair thoroughly with running water. This is more important if you've left the dye in so long that it has dried out.
- Gently wash your hair with color care shampoo. Keeping your hair moisturized will help maintain the color.
- Keep rinsing your hair until the water starts running clear. If you leave any dye in, you will end up staining anything your hair touches.
- Apply conditioner. This will also help keep your hair moist.
- Allow your hair to air dry. Blow drying will dry out your hair too much and make your new color fade faster.

Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Maintaining Your New Look

1
Minimize hair washing. Semi-permanent dye will fade more each time you wash your hair.^{[7]
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Expert Source

Karen Leight
Professional Hair Stylist
Expert Interview. 13 November 2020.} To make the color last longer, wash your hair as infrequently as you can get away with. The thicker and less oily your hair, the less often you need to wash it.^{[8]
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Research source}
2
Use color-protecting shampoo.^{[9]
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Expert Source

Karen Leight
Professional Hair Stylist
Expert Interview. 13 November 2020.} When you do wash your hair, be sure to use a shampoo that will minimize fade. Most major shampoo brands have at least one color-protecting product. If you have trouble finding one at the drugstore, try checking a specialty beauty supply shop.
- Sulfate-free shampoos that are complementary to your color are your best bet. For instance, a purple shampoo is great for blondes and silvers.
3
Keep your hair moisturized. Dry hair is more prone to fading. Use conditioner, whether rinse-out or leave-in. If you have very textured, coily type hair, try using shea butter.
4
Repeat dyeing as needed. The nature of semi-permanent hair color is that it doesn’t last forever. Dye your hair using the same steps above once it fades to a color you aren’t quite happy with. You could also try a different color. If you bleached your hair before, don’t bleach it again unless your roots have grown out.

Expert Q&A
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Question

Can you put a semi-permanent color on wet hair?

Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Licensed Cosmetologist

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You should apply a semi-permanent color to clean, damp hair. Make sure it has been thoroughly towel-dried. If it is too wet it won't properly absorb the color.
Question

What is the difference between semi- and demi-permanent hair color?

Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Licensed Cosmetologist

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Semi-permanent color is a stain that begins to fade with the first shampoo. Demi-permanent is similar to a very mild form of permanent color as it chemically deposits color molecules under the cuticle for a longer-lasting effect.
Question

Do you dye your hair when it's wet or dry?

Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Licensed Cosmetologist

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It depends on the type of color you are applying. Permanent color should be applied to dry hair. Semi-permanent color will be absorbed the best on freshly-washed and toweled-dry hair.