How to Grow Gourds

Scarify the seeds. Gourds are infamous for their tough outer seed shell, which is partly responsible for their extra long germination period. To prevent your seeds/gourds from rotting because they took too long to germinate, you can scarify them to speed the process. Use an emery board (paper nail file) or a smooth sandpaper to scratch up the outer surface of the seeds. This shouldn’t take too long; the rough paper should just roughen the coating of both sides of the seed.

Soak the seeds. After the seeds have been scarified, place them in a bowl of lukewarm water and allow them to soak. This should be done for a total of 24 hours, in order to help speed up the germination process.

Let the seeds dry. After soaking for 24 hours, remove the seeds from the water and lay them out to dry on a piece of wax paper. Giving them time to completely dry out will prevent them from rotting before even sprouting.

Start your seeds. It’s a good idea to give your seeds a head start (even if you’re in a warmer area) by planting them in starter sets indoors. Fill small seed trays with your prepared soil, and place a single seed in each slot. Give daily watering until you’re ready to transplant the sprouts outdoors, typically after the last frost of the winter.

• Make sure the seeds get plenty of light to keep them from getting too leggy (excessively long and straggly stemmed) later on.

Dig rows and create hills. In the location you’ve selected for your garden plot, use a small trowel or shovel to prepare your rows and hills, or small mounds of earth, for the gourd seedlings. If you’re planting many gourds at once, make sure to follow the seed packet spacing directions strictly. Gourds typically need to be planted several feet away from each other in order to thrive.

• Keep your rows near your trellis if you’re using one.

Plant the gourds. Place each small seedling or seed into its own individual hill; don’t group several in the same space. Cover up the seeds with ½ inch of dirt, and cover seedlings to the base of the new growth.

Care for your newly planted gourds. At planting, water the gourd seeds heavily so as to reduce the risk of transplant shock. Gourds like plenty of moisture, so make sure the soil is damp by adding water on a daily basis if necessary. Remove weeds as they sprout, as these will steal valuable nutrients and growing space from the gourds. If you’re using a trellis, as the gourds grow in size you can use a bit of string to secure them to the posts and give them plenty of room for growth.

• Add a layer of mulch to the garden plot to lock in moisture and block out new weeds.
• Consider incorporating an equal-part fertilizer (like a 10-10-10 mixture) to the soil every few months.
• Give your gourds extra water when the weather is particularly dry or hot, to maintain a high level of moisture in the soil

Consider training ornamental gourds. If you’re growing ornamental gourds, it is common for growers to train them into interesting shapes and structures. There are two general ways to train the shape of a gourd: bending over time, and by giving it a mold. You can slowly bend parts of a gourd as it grows, if you want a winding snake-like gourd in the end. You can also create a mold for your gourd by placing the small fruit inside a breakable vessel of some sort (like a vase). When the gourd has grown, it will fill the container and match its shape; you simply have to break the mold to remove it when done.

Leave the gourds to cure on the vine. When your gourds have reached their full size, the vine they’re growing on will start to die off on its own. At this point your gourds are ready for harvesting, but you’ll make the job a lot easier on yourself if you leave them to cure on the vine. Give them several weeks to a month for the curing process to occur; as you check in on them, you’ll notice them getting lighter and lighter. Unless you notice animals and bugs eating the gourds, there’s no fear of rotting or going bad.

• If you’re harvesting edible gourds, they’ll need to be removed from the vine when they’re still young.
• If you have to cut the gourds early, wait till the vine at the top of the gourd has turned completely brown and dry.
• Turn the gourds occasionally and move them around to keep them from touching.

Remove the gourds. The curing time varies from gourd to gourd depending on its size (and therefore water content). Check the gourds on a weekly basis to tell if they’re ready. Feel the skin and check the firmness of the gourds; if they are at all soft or squishy, they are rotten and should be thrown out. When the skin feels hard and slightly waxy to the touch, they are likely ready to be cut. Shake the gourd as the final test to see if they are fully cured; if they are ready, they’ll sound like a rattle with the seeds banging around on the inside. Use a pair of scissors or shears to cut the gourds from the vine.

Treat the shell of the gourd. Although it is not required, you can treat the shell of the gourd to change its appearance and to help it last longer. Wash the gourd with a bit of dish detergent and warm water to kill off any bacteria. You can then use a bit of sandpaper or steel wool to shine the outside of the gourd, and add a layer of wax or shellac to finish off the shine. You can decorate gourds by painting the outsides as well.