How to Choose a Platinum Ring

Co-authored by Nicole Wegman

Last Updated: November 4, 2022 References

Platinum is often called the "king of metals" because it is rare, enduring, and pure. Not all platinum, however, is equal and not all platinum craftsmanship is the same. Because platinum is an expensive choice, it is important to choose your ring wisely. To choose the ideal platinum ring, know about the qualities of platinum to look for, how to search for a ring, and what type of ring would suit you best.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Knowing What Qualities to Look for

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Choose a ring with high purity. As with all precious metals, platinum must be alloyed with other metals in order to achieve the hardness required for jewelry. It is often alloyed with non-precious metals like copper or cobalt. Although it may not be 100% pure, it is often purer than other precious metals, like gold.^{[1]
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- A ring that is 95% pure will be an expensive, but worthwhile choice. If that’s too expensive for you, shop around for a ring with at least 90% purity.
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Check the hallmark on the inside of the ring to confirm purity percentage. Federal regulations require all platinum bands to bear a stamp or "hallmark" on the inside of the band. If it says "IridPlat,” or ".90Plat/Ir," then the ring is only 90% pure platinum, and you should pay less for it than a ring that is 95% pure platinum. If the hallmark says "Plat" or ".95 Plat," then the ring is considered pure platinum and commands a premium price.^{[2]
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3
Ask your jeweler about the alloy used in your platinum ring. If you are buying a pure platinum ring (95% platinum), then it should be alloyed with either cobalt or ruthenium. These alloys produce a harder platinum that can hold a mirror bright polish and resist years of daily wear. Many .95 pure platinum rings are alloyed with the less expensive metal iridium, but these rings are softer and will become scratched and dull within a year of daily wear.^{[3]
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Look for quality engraving. If you want your ring to have engraved elements, look for quality handcrafted work. Some jewelry manufacturers choose to imitate hand engraving by embedding a design into the ring’s casting. This prefabricated engraving will eventually wear off and lose its luster. Therefore, look for deep and intricate hand engraving, which typically lasts for generations.^{[4]
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Choose handcrafted filigree. Filigree is a design element reminiscent of the Art Deco period. If you want to have a filigree ring, look for a ring with delicate and sculptural elements. To save costs, many jewelers prefabricate filigree in the casting process. True artistry calls for filigree that is created from hand-drawn wires and sculpted then soldered into a piece.^{[5]
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Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Searching for a Ring

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Check online for rings to research design and ring options. Get an idea of what kind of ring you would like by searching online. You can look at websites, which have a variety of rings. Or, you can look at the rings jewelry shops offer before visiting the physical store. Looking at rings online will give you an idea of what is popular and available, as well as what the type of platinum ring you want usually goes for.^{[6]
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- You can purchase your ring online, but it is usually best to go to a physical jewelry store so that you can make sure the ring is what you want and fits correctly.
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Visit several jewelry stores. You may find a seemingly perfect ring at the first jewelry store you visit, but it is best to visit at least a few jewelry stores before committing. Visit at least three jewelry stores and even more stores if possible. Compare these stores for quality, selection, and prices.^{[7]
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- You can choose to visit only high-end stores, mid-range, or a range of jewelry shops.
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Compare prices. Platinum used to be sold at a fixed price, but now jewelers change the price of platinum each day. The price usually fluctuates between 4 to 5% on a daily basis. Compare prices while visiting jewelry stores to make sure you’re getting the best deal.^{[8]
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- Take note of the quality of rings when comparing prices.
- Ask to separate the labor and platinum charges when asking for the price of a ring.
- If you're comparing the cost of platinum to similar white gold rings, keep in mind that platinum is a much more stable color. White gold is often treated with a rhodium plating to make the jewelry look whiter. As that plating wears off, the white gold will begin to look more yellow, instead of white.^{[9]
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  Nicole Wegman
  Jewelry Professional & Founder of Ring Concierge
  Expert Interview. 23 April 2020.}
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Ask for a certification. Along with the hallmark that certifies the ring, ask if the jewelry store offers tamper-proof quality assurance cards. You can keep this card if you plan to sell your ring in the future, or you can keep it in a jewelry box if you plan to pass it on to a family member in the future.^{[10]
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Look at several different styles. Unless you have your heart set on a style of ring, look at and try on several different styles. You might find one style you like on your first try and find the perfect ring on your third or fourth try. Make sure to try each style on when searching for a ring, as the style you prefer may not look as desired when on your finger.^{[11]
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Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Choosing the Right Ring for You

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Take at least two finger measurements before determining a size. When it comes time to actually choose a ring, it’s important to know your ring size. Platinum rings can be resized, but it is costly to do so. Measure your ring finger at least twice before determining your size. Along with measuring multiple times, use two different sizers.^{[12]
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Match the ring to your taste in style. If high style and glamour are your taste in fashion, go for a showstopper that’s loaded with exquisite hand artistry and a large center stone. Or, if you want to be fashionable and practical, look at substantial platinum bands with unique engraving. Since this purchase will likely be worn for ages to come, avoid the trendy, ultra-modern designs that are likely to look dated in a few years.^{[13]
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Go for a low profile if you lead an active lifestyle. Forgo the delicate work and opt for a platinum design with a low profile if physical activity is a priority in your life. A low profile is one that doesn’t elevate the center stone. This prevents the stone from getting banged around.^{[14]
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Go for a bolder design in you have a larger frame. If you are large-framed with large, angular hands, choose a bolder design for your ring. Choose a ring with a thicker platinum band and more pronounced stone. Or, consider stacking several rings.^{[15]
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Try a delicate design if you are petite. If you are petite, choose more delicate pieces and plenty of details. A smaller stone and band size is ideal. Make sure that the ring doesn’t twist or become off-centered easily or that it looks good when stacked with a wedding band.^{[16]
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Choose a custom ring for a one-of-a-kind heirloom piece. For those who wish to express their individualism and own a statement ring that will become a family heirloom, custom is the best way to go. Custom-made rings allow you to work with the designer to create the ultimate reflection of your tastes. The “build your own ring” online tools are fun, but far from the true custom craftsmanship associated with a quality ring. Work with a knowledgeable, personal jeweler who can guide you in the process.^{[17]
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- Keep in mind that this may not be an option if you’re on a budget.
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Ask your jeweler for a wax mold or silver replica of your ring. If you have chosen a custom ring that is designed by you, you can ask your jeweler for a wax mold of your ring to ensure that the design meets your expectations before it is cast into platinum. Today, the best shops use computer-aided design (CAD) to create a three-dimensional image of your ring. Then, the jeweler creates a wax mold of the piece and the artisans refine its dimensions with extreme precision. Find out if your jeweler offers this service, which can eliminate any disappointment that your custom ring is not what you dreamed of.^{[18]
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- A few jewelers create a sterling silver and cubic zirconia version of a client’s custom ring before casting it in platinum to ensure that the ring is exactly what the client wants.

Expert Q&A

Question

Why should I choose platinum over white gold?

Nicole Wegman
Jewelry Professional & Founder of Ring Concierge
Nicole Wegman is the Founder and CEO of Ring Concierge, a New York City-based fine jewelry brand. Specializing in engagement ring and wedding band trends, Ring Concierge creates a luxury experience catered towards millennials. Ring Concierge offers engagement rings along with earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and anklets. Nicole's work and Ring Concierge have been featured in Vogue, Glamour, Who What Wear, Martha Stewart Weddings, Brides, and Cosmopolitan. Nicole is a GIA (Gemological Institute of America) Accredited Jewelry Professional and holds a BS in Fiber Science and Apparel Design from Cornell University.

Nicole Wegman

Jewelry Professional & Founder of Ring Concierge

Expert Answer

Platinum will hold its color better than white gold over time. White gold has a rhodium plating that will wear off over time, so your white gold will look more yellow. Platinum is a solid color throughout.

Warnings

Platinum can scratch easily. Be careful when wearing your ring, and purchase a good polish to remove scratches.^{[22]
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Keep in mind that platinum rings are usually more expensive than other types of metals to repair and resize.^{[23]
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