How to Conk Hair

Co-authored by Ashley Adams

Last Updated: September 16, 2021

The “conk” was a popular hairstyle for Black hair that began in the 1950s. Since then, conking hair has become synonymous with relaxing hair so it appears straight and smooth. Relaxers contain lots of chemicals so do this process at home with caution. Start by choosing a relaxer for your hair type. Then, relax your hair and style it into a conk so you get a nice, smooth look.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Choosing the Relaxer

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Use a lye-relaxer if you have coiled or curly hair. Traditionally, conking hair was done by making a homemade relaxer with lye. Lye-relaxers are strong enough to straighten hair that is curly or coiled.^{[1]
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- Lye is a strong chemical that can burn your skin and hair if too much is applied or it sits on your hair too long. Always use lye-relaxer with caution, preferably with help from a friend.
2
Try a calcium hydroxide relaxer if you have a sensitive scalp. This type of relaxer is designed for people with sensitive scalps, as it does not contain lye, and is strong enough to relax curly, coiled, or wavy hair. However, it is harsh on your hair and can cause it to dry out.^{[2]
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- If you already have dry hair, you may want to try a different type of relaxer. Using a calcium hydroxide relaxer can cause more damage to your hair and make it more dry.
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3
Go for an ammonium thioglycolate relaxer for fine or wavy hair. This type of relaxer is less strong than a lye or calcium hydroxide relaxer and works well on fine or wavy hair. It is not recommended for coarse or curly hair as it is not strong enough to straighten this type of hair.^{[3]
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Choose a mild or regular strength relaxer. Hair relaxers come in three strengths: mild, regular, and super strength. Go for a mild relaxer if you have fine hair that is damaged or color treated. If your hair is not color treated and is wavy, curly, or coarse, you can use regular strength.^{[4]
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- Avoid using super strength hair relaxer unless you have very coarse hair that has not been previously relaxed, as it is very high in active chemicals and can cause permanent damage to your hair.
- You can find hair relaxers for color-treated hair.
- If you have bleached hair or damaged hair, avoid using hair relaxers. Transition your hair to its natural color or wait until your hair gets healthier to use relaxer.
- You can get hair relaxer at your local beauty supply store or online, or you can get it professionally done at a salon.

Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Relaxing Your Hair

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Ask a friend or family member to help you. Relaxing your hair on your own can be difficult, as you will need to get the relaxer on the back of your head. Ask someone to assist you so they can spread the relaxer on your entire head properly.^{[5]
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- Ask a friend or family member who has used hair relaxer before. They will be more comfortable putting the relaxer on your hair and be more familiar with the process.
2
Avoid shampooing or combing your hair. Shampooing and combing your hair will irritate your scalp, leaving your skin more susceptible to chemical injuries when you use the relaxer. Avoid brushing your hair at all before you plan to relax. Wash your hair four days before you are going to relax it so your scalp can build up natural oils.
- If you do use a hair brush, do so very gently just on your hair, avoiding your scalp.
- You should avoid scratching your scalp for the few days prior to using the relaxer.
3
Put petroleum jelly on your scalp, ears, and neck. The jelly will help to prevent the relaxer from getting onto your skin and burning you. Spread a thin layer around your ears, your hairline, your forehead, your scalp, and the nape of your neck.^{[6]
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- Your relaxing kit should come with a base that you can use to protect your skin from burns. If this is included, you should use it rather than petroleum jelly.
- You can also apply a small amount of coconut oil or hair oil to your scalp to protect it. Use your fingers to massage in a thin layer of oil on your entire scalp.
4
Wear gloves. Hair relaxer contains very strong chemicals that will burn your skin. Protect your hands by wearing thick rubber or latex gloves. If someone is applying the relaxer for you, make sure they wear thick rubber gloves to protect themselves.^{[7]
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- You may also want to wear a long sleeved t-shirt and pants to protect your skin.
5
Mix the relaxer according to the label instructions. Pour the relaxer into a plastic bowl that you do not plan to use again. Follow the instructions on the package and use a wooden spoon or a plastic brush to mix the relaxer in the bowl.^{[8]
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- Do not add anything extra to the relaxer. It should come ready to mix in the package.
6
Part your hair into four sections. Use a comb to part your hair into sections. Split your hair down the middle, then split it again from ear to ear, which will create four sections. Pin down the sections you are not going to focus on yet. Leave one section loose. This will allow you to apply the relaxer one section at a time, ensuring you do not miss any sections.^{[9]
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Put relaxer on the ends of your hair and work your way up. If it's your first relaxer, start at your ends. Use your gloved fingers to spread the relaxer on the ends of your hair. Then, work your way up the roots. Smooth the strands as you go upward to the roots.^{[10]
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- Make sure you get relaxer on the roots of your hair. It may sting a little but the jelly and oil on your scalp should reduce the sting. After the stinging starts, however, it will continue until you rinse off the product.
- Repeat these steps for each section of your hair.
- If you are touching up your hair, you should only apply the relaxer to your roots.
8
Let the relaxer set. If you have coarse hair and are experienced with relaxers, it's okay to let it sit for up to 15 minutes. However, it's usually best to work quickly and not let it sit. If you have fine hair, you may be able to keep the relaxer on your hair for 5 to 10 minutes. If you have curly or coarse hair, you may need to keep the relaxer on your hair up to 15 minutes.^{[11]
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- Do not keep the relaxer on for longer than 15 minutes, as this can result in hair damage and burns to your scalp.
- If the relaxer starts to sting as it sets, you may need to rinse it out. Follow it with a neutralizing shampoo. If it burns, remove the relaxer immediately.
9
Rinse it out with water. Use warm running water to rinse out the relaxer. Use gloved fingers to rinse off all the relaxer, working it off from the roots to the ends. Make sure you get all of the relaxer off your hair so it does not get damaged.
- Rinse your hair several times to ensure all the relaxer is gone.
- After you rinse, wash with a neutralizing shampoo and use a conditioner.

Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Styling Your Hair into a Conk

1
Wash and condition your hair. Use a neutralizing shampoo to wash your hair. Then, use a rich conditioner made for thick, coarse hair. This will ensure your hair does not get too dry or damaged due to the relaxer.^{[12]
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Dry your hair with a towel. Make sure it is damp, but not soaking wet. Your hair should be straight and smooth due to the relaxer.^{[13]
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Comb your hair into a conk. Comb the front section of your hair straight backwards, away from your forehead. It should form a high swoop on the top of your head. Then, comb your sideburns so they go straight backwards in a smooth, straight line, close to your head.^{[14]
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- You can then pat the sides and top of the conk style so it appears smooth and straight.
- You can also put your own twist to the conk. You can pull your sideburns behind the ear, or smooth them in front of the ear.

Expert Q&A

Question

How do you get a Jheri curl?

Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

Jheri curl is a specific brand of retexturizer. To get one, you buy a box and follow the steps, applying the relaxer and then rolling your hair on perm rods.
Question

What is a butter hairstyle?

Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

It is essentially an old form of relaxer where hair was straightened with harsh chemicals for easier styling. Lye was often used and frequently resulted in damage to the scalp.
Question

Why do they call it a Jheri curl?

Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.

Laura Martin

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

A Jheri curl is a specific brand of relaxer. However, the name has become synonymous with retexturizers that reshape the natural curl pattern by applying relaxer and setting the hair on rods.