Guinea pigs make great pets, but they are prone to urinary tract infections and other bladder problems. Calcium in a guinea pig’s diet is the most common cause of kidney stones. Also, due to their short stature, their genitals are low to the ground and will often make contact with droppings and other harmful bacteria. By diagnosing, treating, and preventing urinary issues, you can keep your guinea pig happy and healthy.

Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Diagnosing Urinary Problems

  1. 1
    Look for blood in your guinea pig’s urine. Examine your guinea pig’s bedding and the hair around their bottom for dried blood. Blood typically dries a dark rust color rather than bright red.[1]
  2. 2
    Examine bedding for infrequent urination. When you change your guinea pig’s bedding, look for bedding that seems overly dry with no urine spots. Infrequent urination can be a sign of a urinary tract infection.[2]
    Advertisement
  3. 3
    Listen for squeaking while peeing. Notice if your guinea pig squeaks or squeals as they urinate. This may be a sign of painful urination, which could mean your pet has an infection.[3]
  4. 4
    Pay attention to any abdominal tenderness. If your normally docile guinea pig bites or scratches when you grasp around its belly, it may be experiencing bladder tenderness.[4]
  5. 5
    Take your guinea pig to the vet. Make an appointment at your veterinarian’s office right away if you notice any of these symptoms. Your vet can use an X-ray to examine your guinea pig for bladder stones, use a needle to draw a urine sample, and perform a physical examination.[5]
  6. 6
    Calm your guinea pig before the physical examination or X-rays. Help your veterinarian get to the bottom of the problem by calming your guinea pig before any imaging and diagnostic tests. Talk to your pet in a calming, reassuring voice. You can also ask the vet if you may stroke your pet during the physical exam to make it feel safe.
    • Keep in mind that you will not be allowed into the room where x-rays are performed due to the radiation and liability issues.
  7. Advertisement
Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Treating Urinary Problems

  1. 1
    Administer any prescribed antibiotics as directed. Finish the complete course of any antibiotics your vet prescribes your guinea pig, even if it seems better after only a few days.[6]
    • Most courses of medication for these infections are about 2 weeks long.
    • Let your vet know if your pet has any adverse reaction to the medication, such as a refusal to eat.
  2. 2
    Ask your vet about any drug interactions. Some medications have interactions with everyday foods and treats. Consult your vet to understand whether your pet should take the medication with food or avoid any normal activities during treatment.[7]
  3. 3
    Go back to the vet if symptoms persist on medication. If the troubling urinary symptoms do not get better after a few days on the medication, call your vet. It may be that there are further diagnoses, such as bladder stones, that need to be explored.[8]
    • Many of these other bladder problems can be diagnosed by X-ray or ultrasound.
  4. 4
    Look for recurrences of urinary bleeding after treatment. Keep a close eye on your pet in the days after you finish administering the antibiotics. If your guinea pig starts peeing blood again or crying with urination, take it back to the doctor.[9]
  5. 5
    Examine bedding for regular urination. When you clean your guinea pig’s cage, look for bedding with wet spots that indicate your pet is peeing normally. A guinea pig that is peeing infrequently may have a continuing urinary issue.[10]
  6. 6
    Avoid handling your pet while they're healing. Let your guinea pig rest in their cage as they recover from being ill. Save the cuddling for another time when your pet is feeling 100%.[11] You may also need to force-feed your pet if they are avoiding food due to nausea caused by medications.
    • When your pet is acting like their old self and not showing any symptoms of urinary illness, you can handle them again.
    • Always remember to wash your hands before and after handling your guinea pig.
  7. Advertisement
Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Preventing Urinary Problems

  1. 1
    Change your guinea pig's bedding more frequently. Replace the bedding in your guinea pig's cage every 3-4 days rather than just once a week. Scoop the old bedding into the trash and spray the bottom of the cage with a half-and-half white vinegar and water mixture. Wipe the cage dry with a paper towel, and refill it with clean bedding.[12]
    • When you clean the cage, place your guinea pig in a second safe cage or an enclosed location, such as a bathtub.
    • Spot clean your guinea pig's cage on a daily basis by removing soiled spots and replacing with fresh bedding.
    • Line the base of the cage with newspaper or puppy pads for extra absorbency.
  2. 2
    Trim the bottoms of longhaired guinea pigs. Take your guinea pig out of the cage, and dampen the hair near their bottom with tap water. You want the hair to be wet but not soaking. Use your fingers to take sections of the hair between your middle and index finger, and trim the excess hair with grooming scissors to keep your guinea pig’s bottom tidy.[13] [14]
    • Regular trims will keep your guinea pig’s hair from getting dirty and matted with urine or feces.
    • Talk to your guinea pig as you groom them to keep them calm and relaxed.
  3. 3
    Offer plain cranberry juice. Place some unsweetened cranberry juice in a water bottle for your guinea pig. Cranberry juice can reduce the incidence of UTIs by half and may keep your pet out of the vet’s office. Avoid cranberry juice cocktails and other sweet mixes with added sugars.[15]
    • Plain cranberry juice can be quite bitter. If your guinea pig isn’t fond of it, try diluting the juice with a little water.
    • Change the juice bottle twice a day to keep it clean.[16]
    • There is no need to restrict cranberry juice, but if your guinea pig loves it you may want to stick to one cup (236 ml) a day to avoid stomach upset.
  4. Advertisement

About This Article

Deanne Pawlisch, CVT, MA
Co-authored by:
Certified Veterinary Technician
This article was co-authored by Deanne Pawlisch, CVT, MA. Deanne Pawlisch is a Certified Veterinary Technician, who does corporate training for veterinary practices and has taught at the NAVTA-approved Veterinary Assistant Program at the Harper College in Illinois and in 2011 was elected to the board of the Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care Foundation. Deanne has been a Board Member of the Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care Foundation in San Antonio, Texas since 2011. She holds a BS in Anthropology from Loyola University and an MA in Anthropology from Northern Illinois University. This article has been viewed 50,167 times.
80 votes - 96%
Co-authors: 8
Updated: February 19, 2023
Views: 50,167
Categories: Guinea Pigs
Advertisement