How to Restore Water Flow To a Clogged Kitchen Drain

Realize that when water does not run through your drain, it is because there is a bunch of junk and trash clogged up in one of the pipes. The clog could be anywhere in the drain pipes, not just limited to your kitchen. Although rare, it can even be in the vent pipe leading to the roof; such blockages usually cause slowly draining pipes rather than completely blocked pipes (just like slowly flowing gasoline from a gas can when the vent is closed).

Hair clogs. For bathtub, shower and wash basins, an inexpensive barbed plastic dipstick may do the trick (e.g. “Zip-It”). These dipsticks are often limited use as the barbs are easily broken.^{[1] [2]}

Try a plunger. Liquid drain cleaners usually contain lye or other hazardous, caustic chemicals, and sometimes damage older types of pipes, and are toxic to fish. There are, however, a few earth-friendly enzymatic powders available (but they usually take 24 hours or so to work, and often are ineffective on stubborn clogs).^[3]

Keep at it. Plungers can work on the upstroke or the downstroke. Plunging down increases the pressure above the clog and forces it down the drain (while breaking it up), on the upstroke the pressure above the clog becomes lower than the pressure below the clog (which then may break apart and come up into the bottom of the sink, where you may collect it and dispose of it in the trash).

Seal off secondary openings. If working on a double kitchen sink with two slowly moving or clogged drains, either close up one side with a wet rag — or use two plungers at once (perhaps with a friend's help), pushing down and pulling up together. On a bathroom sink with an overflow hole, seal the hole with a wet rag (or just your hand) while plunging the drain. Failure to block any secondary openings results in a significant loss of pressure from the plunger, likely leaving the clog in place, and may cause water to eject from the opening. If you aren’t dislodging the clog with a plunger, and the secondary openings are sealed off, try adding a little water in the sink around the plunger, as this may help to seal the connection to the sink/drain. If the plunger still doesn’t work, the clog may be past the sewer air vent to the roof, and the force of your plunge is simply going up the vent.^[4]

If the plunger doesn't work, you may have to snake it.^[5] But first put a bucket under the trap below the sink, and remove the trap by unscrewing the connectors. (Hopefully you haven’t used any caustic chemicals on the clog. If you have, be extremely careful and wear protective gloves, goggles & clothing.) Clear the trap of any clogs. If the water drained from the sink when the trap was removed, and the trap wasn't clogged, then the problem is further down the drain. This is almost certainly the case in a double sink where both sides are clogged (since each side usually has its own trap).^[6]

Buy a "snake" (also known as a drain cleaning auger).^[7] Typical sizes for home use range from 15−50´. 25´ is usually more than enough. Some are manual, some electric, some are hybrids, and others are automatic. Hybrids can be hand cranked, or attached to an electric hand drill. Unless you need to work on drains frequently, it’s probably best to start off with an inexpensive manual snake. In most cases, a drill attachment is over-kill, can get in the way, and becomes one more item which may require cleaning.

Insert the snake into the drain pipe where you removed the trap (easier than from the drain in the bottom of the sink), and when you meet resistance, rotate the snake clockwise. If it begins to move forward easily again, you have likely just hit a turn in the pipe. If not, continue to turn and gently push forward to cut through and clear the clog. Never jam a snake hard as this is unlikely to clear the clog, and may damage the snake.^[8]

When you retrieve a snake from the pipe, be prepared for it to be covered in the most vile, black, smelly sewer-line sludge (even for kitchen drain lines). Snakes are springy by nature; when the tip of the snake comes out, make sure it doesn’t have an opportunity to whip around, or you and the surroundings will get sprayed with sludge. Cussing will follow.

Sometimes clogs can be more easily approached with a snake from the air vent on the roof. Shorter snakes may be unable to reach the clog from the roof, however.

If the snake doesn't reach the clog, look for a clean out (unscrew a plug in the drain pipe in the basement) further down the drain where the snake may be inserted.

Slow drains. A plugged air vent will cause sinks to drain slowly. If the snaking the drain doesn't help (particularly where the sink drains, but very slowly), an air vent obstruction may be the cause. You may need to snake out the air vent from the roof.

Sometimes there can be a problem with the slope of the drain pipes (although plumbing codes are designed to prevent this, not all pipes are up to code). Check the visible portion of the drain pipe (in the basement) for sagging drain pipes. It may help to add pipe hanging straps to ensure that there is a steady downward slope in the direction of desired flow.

Although plungers are a standard way to clear a clogged toilet, they can be messy to clean afterward. Time and water alone can often clear a clogged toilet. Usually the problem is a combination of feces and toilet paper. Over time, the water logged toilet paper softens and breaks apart. Put about two gallons in a bucket and pour water directly into the bowl. The idea is to pour the water as quickly as possible, but not so forcefully as to cause splash-out. This can sometimes create more force than a flush alone might accomplish. If nothing seems to move much, wait about a half-hour before trying again. Repeat as necessary. This method is almost always effective, in time, but may take several hours to work. Patience is key. If you don’t have the time, a plunger will usually do the trick. Failing that, you may want to buy a special toilet auger, which differs from a standard snake in that it is short, and attached to a 3´ rod.