How to Sew Thick Fabric by Hand

Co-authored by Korri Burton-Universe

Last Updated: August 9, 2021 References

If you're hoping to sew thick fabric by hand, there are lots of things you can do to make it easier. Start by using strong sewing tools that will help you move through fabrics like denim, wool, canvas, or leather. There are several stitches that are great for thicker fabrics too. With a little bit of patience and some helpful tools, your thick fabric will be sewn in no time.

Method 1

Method 1 of 3:

Using the Right Tools

1
Choose a needle that's a size 4 or larger. Needles come in all different sizes depending on which type of fabric they're intended for. Pick out a needle that's about a size 4 so that it will work well with thicker fabrics like denim, upholstery, or canvas.^{[1]
X
Expert Source

Korri Burton-Universe
Professional Tailor
Expert Interview. 12 January 2021.} Visit a craft store and look at the packaging to find the needle's size written on it.^{[2]
X
Research source}
- Many needles will even tell you on the packaging which type of fabric they're best for.
- A size 4 needle is best for denim while a size 3 needle works well for leather.
- Choose a wedge-point needle for thick fabrics like vinyl or leather to pierce the heavy fibers more easily and a sharp tip for thick fabrics like canvas that are woven.^{[3]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Korri Burton-Universe
  Professional Tailor
  Expert Interview. 12 January 2021.}
2
Opt for upholstery or heavy duty thread to sew your fabric. Choose a heavyweight thread for your thicker fabric so that it won’t tear. Look for threads labeled as “upholstery weight,” “extra strong,” or something similar for your project.^{[4]
X
Research source}
- Choose a heavyweight thread color that matches your fabric.
Advertisement
3
Try using a sewing awl for sewing thick fabric quickly. A sewing awl is a small tool that makes sewing thick fabric much easier. Feed the thread through the hole and needle in the awl. Punch a hole all the way through your fabric using the needle and pull the thread out from the bottom⁠—this will be easy to do since the thread is attached to the sewing awl's needle.^{[5]
X
Research source}
- A sewing awl is great if you’re working with leather or canvas.
4
Wax your thread to make it slide through the thick fabric easier. Purchase wax for your thread, which is sometimes called thread conditioner. Slide the thread through the wax to make the thread slick. This will make it much easier for the thread to move through your thick fabric.^{[6]
X
Research source}
- Pull the thread through your needle after it’s waxed.
5
Use a thimble to protect your finger from the sewing needle. When you’re sewing something by hand, it can be easy to prick your finger with the needle. Wear a thimble on your pointer finger on the opposite hand that you sew with to protect your finger from accidental pokes.^{[7]
X
Expert Source

Korri Burton-Universe
Professional Tailor
Expert Interview. 12 January 2021.}^{[8]
X
Research source}
- Look for a thimble at a local craft or big box store.

Method 2

Method 2 of 3:

Choosing a Stitch and Seams

1
Use a backstitch for a simple stitch. To do a backstitch, poke your needle through the fabric starting from the back and coming up through the front. Bring the needle back down through the fabric about 1 cm (0.39 in) away from the original stitch and pull it back up through the fabric another 1 cm (0.39 in) away. Loop back down into the fabric right next to your first stitch, and continue this pattern for the backstitch.^{[9]
X
Research source}
- The backstitch is a great stitch for thick fabrics because it’s simple but holds the fabric in place tightly.
2
Sew your fabric with a catch stitch to join fabric that's very thick. A catch stitch is made by sewing zig zags next to one another in a line along the fabric’s edge. Sew the catch stitches so that the stitch is overlapping the folded edge of the fabric.^{[10]
X
Research source}
3
Try a baste stitch to sew thick fabric quickly. Thread a needle and weave the needle and thread in and out of the fabric in a straight line. Leave about 1 cm (0.39 in) of space between each stitch as you weave for a quick and easy baste stitch.^{[11]
X
Research source}
- The baste stitch isn’t a heavy duty option, but it will keep your fabric together.
4
Choose a bias bound seam to cover the edges of thick fabric. Pick out bias binding at a craft store that matches your thick fabric. Sew the bias binding onto the edge of your thick fabric to hide it using a straight stitch. This is a great way to create a smooth edge.^{[12]
X
Research source}
5
Opt for a French seam for an invisible sewing job. Make a French seam by sewing the seam on the inside of your project so it can’t be seen. Fold your fabric so the sides that will be hidden are facing one another and sew a seam down them. Trim your fabric along the seam, iron it so it’s flat, and then sew another seam to finish it off.^{[13]
X
Research source}
- Use pins to help you hold the fabric in place as you’re sewing.

Method 3

Method 3 of 3:

Pressing and Holding Your Fabric

1
Iron the folds and edges to help keep them in place. Fold the edges of your fabric where you’ll be sewing and use an iron to crease them so the thick fabric will stay folded. Lay a cloth between your fabric and the iron to protect your fabric.^{[14]
X
Research source}
- Fold the edges and then lay the cloth on top before using the iron.
- Avoid touching the hot sections of the iron so you don’t burn yourself.
2
Use pins to hold the folds together as you sew. Push long pins through the thick fabric to hold a folded edge or several pieces of fabric together. Slide the pins through the fabric before you start sewing and then remove them carefully once you’ve sewn that specific area.^{[15]
X
Research source}
- Be careful not to poke yourself with the pin when you’re pushing it through the fabric.
3
Hold the folds using clips if your fabric is very thick. Regular binder clips or something similar can be very useful if you’re trying to hold together very thick fabric or several pieces of it. Attach the clips to the edge or area you’d like to sew and then remove the clips once you’re finished sewing.^{[16]
X
Research source}
- For example, you might use clips to hold the folded edge of the thick fabric so you can sew a hem.
4
Hit thick seams with a rubber mallet to flatten and smooth them. If you’re using extra thick fabric, your seams may feel bulky, especially if they cross with another seam. To help flatten the fabric out, tap the seam with a hammer or rubber mallet. Do this a couple times to smooth out the seam so it’s not so thick.^{[17]
X
Research source}