How to Install a Chair Rail

Last Updated: December 23, 2021 References Approved

Installing a chair rail is a project that you can do yourself with a few simple tools. The original purpose of a chair rail was to guard the wall against damage the backs of errant chairs, but a chair rail can also lend definition and elegance to a space.

Steps

1
Select appropriate molding to be your chair rail. It can be narrow or wide, depending upon the style you wish to add to the room, but it should be appropriate to go in the middle of the wall; it should lie relatively flat against the wall as well.
2
Determine the height of your chair rail. You can place a chalk line or strip of masking tape on the wall to help visualize the height while you decide. It will probably be somewhere between 30 and 36 inches (75-90cm) high, though some go higher for dramatic effect.^{[1]
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Research source} Here are other factors to consider:
- The height of your chairs. Whether or not you are installing the chair rail to prevent damage to the wall, compare its height to your furnishings. It will help achieve a unified look.
- Windows in the room. Will you break the chair rail for windows, or position the chair rail below the windows?
- The height of any paneling that will go above or below the chair rail. If the chair rail will mark the top edge of wainscoting, for instance, simply follow the top edge of that material.
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3
Measure and cut any miters for the chair rail, especially if you are turning any corners that are not 90º. If you have such a corner, look for an angle measuring device at your hardware store. Measure the angle, divide by two, and cut the chair rail on each side of the corner to the half-angle measurement.^{[2]
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4
Measure the length of the chair rail carefully. Miter corners, especially interior corners first, then measure at the height where the chair rail goes. Walls are not always exactly plumb or square. If necessary, miter the corners at the opposite ends. Regardless of whether the ends are mitered for interior or exterior corners, or not mitered at all, the back of the chair rail should be as long as the segment of wall against which it will rest.^{[3]
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5
Paint or finish the molding. It is easier to finish the molding with it before it goes on the wall. Lay it on a drop cloth or newspapers or across a pair of sawhorses, and finish it to match other molding in your home.
6
Paint, paper, or panel the wall behind where the chair rail will go. Again, this is simpler before the rail is installed. A simple way to define a space or change the appearance of a room is to paint or paper a different color or design above and below the chair rail.
7
Locate the studs in the wall and mark them with a pencil or bits of masking tape.^{[4]
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8
Measure up from the floor and/or use a level to mark the chair rail height at each end of each piece.
9
Have an assistant help hold the chair rail at the marked height.^{[5]
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10
Drive finishing nails through the chair rail all the way into the studs. Take care not to hit the molding with the hammer, as it will mark.^{[6]
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11
Use a nail set to recess the nails slightly into the molding, so that the heads are inset.
12
Putty over the nails. If you like, caulk the joints where the ends of the chair rail segments meet.^{[7]
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13
Touch up the paint or finish anywhere you have added putty or caulk.^{[8]
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Community Q&A

Question

How do I finish an open end?

Community Answer

You miter it like it's an outside corner and then insert a tiny, oppositely mitered piece to fill in that miter, so the carving wraps around. You might find this practice on your windowsill skirts. It looks sharp and is really the only right way to do it.
Question

How do I miter an outside corner that is not 45 degrees?

Community Answer

Trial and error with scraps. Or, fill-in the wall's corner in that area to get it to a proper 45 degrees.
Question

What if the wood bows out?

Community Answer

Then, you cut it too long and need to cut an end a touch shorter. The piece should hold itself very close to flat in-place and keep the joints closed, but anything more and especially that forces itself out is just too long and could pop itself loose when relative humidity rises in the future.

Warnings

Make sure you know what you're doing. Hiring an expensive contractor can be a good idea if it means the difference between a small bill (for them) or a large bill from the hospital!

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Use paint and varnish with plenty of ventilation and according to all package instructions.

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Use saws safely.^{[9]
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Stud finders can find other things in the wall, such as water pipes. Most construction places the studs at a standard, regular intervals. (Usually 16" to 24" apart) Measure and be careful.

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Things You'll Need

Suitable molding
Finishing nails at least long enough to go through both the molding and the drywall.
Hammer
Nail set
Putty
Caulk (optional)
Sandpaper
Miter saw or wood saw and miter box
Angle measuring device
Stud finder
Paint or finish
A level
A tape measure
An assistant