How to Get Rid of Water Stains and Repair Damaged Wood

A comprehensive walkthrough on removing water stains from furniture

Co-authored by Ryan Owsiany and Eric McClure

Last Updated: March 17, 2023 References

Water and wood definitely don't mix, but we're here to help you restore wood furniture that got a little soggy. There are a lot of repair options based on the extent of the water damage and the way you want the finished piece to look, and we’ll break down all of your options. Read on to learn everything you need to know about repairing water-damaged wood.

Things You Should Know

Dry the wood out if it’s still wet, remove any unsalvageable wood, and fill in cracks or gaps with auto-body filler to create a flat, even surface.
Treat water-based stains by applying mayonnaise, petroleum jelly, lemon juice, toothpaste, mineral spirits, dish soap, or oxalic acid to the wood and wiping it off.
Strip the previous finish using solvent or sandpaper. Then, paint or stain the wood and seal the furniture in varnish to restore your piece.

1

Let the wood air dry.

Wipe up any standing water, then air the wood out. If you notice any moisture or water, wipe it up with a dry rag or cloth. Then, wait 24-48 hours to give any trapped moisture enough time to evaporate. Open the windows, turn any fans on or run a dehumidifier to keep moisture from building up.^{[1]
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- If you’re in a rush, use a hair dryer to dry the wood out.
- So long as you dry the wood, remove the prior finish, sand, and refinish the wood, you'll cover up any water damage.
- This process applies to wood flooring as well, but only for spot damage that hasn’t soaked into your subfloor. If the subfloor below the planks has water damage, hire a flooring contractor to replace the wood.^{[2]
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2

Remove any rotting wood.

If the dried wood is soft or warped, remove it. If the wood is still damaged when it’s fully dry, it’s not salvageable. Pull the wood out by hand or use a chisel or putty knife to pry or scrape out the questionable wood. If the wood is soft and flakey, use a drywall sanding brick or a sheet of sandpaper to carefully wear the worn wood away.^{[3]
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- If the wood can’t be removed because it would damage the structural integrity of the item, apply a wood preservative to try and extend the life of the item.^{[4]
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3

Treat water stains.

Work the water stains away using the product of your choice. You may only need to treat lighter stains once, while darker stains may require multiple attempts. As a rule of thumb, use harsher ingredients for deeper, darker stains. Wipe the material by hand after rinsing it and wait 24 hours for the wood to dry out when you’re done.^{[5]
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- Mayonnaise or petroleum jelly: Take a dab of either mayo or petroleum jelly and rub it into the stain with a soft cloth. Wait 1-2 hours before wiping the mayo or jelly off. The oil from the mayo or jelly will remove moisture and restore the wood.
- Mineral spirits: Put gloves on and pour a small amount of mineral spirits over the stain. Wipe with a cloth following the grain of the wood, then rinse the spirits off. The spirits will soak into the wood and remove penetrated stains.
- Oxalic acid: For darker, tougher water stains, mix 1 part oxalic acid with 6 parts water. Put on gloves and scrub the stains with a cloth and your acid mixture. Then, rinse the acid off and dry the wood by hand.

4

Strip the wood’s finish.

Sand the wood down or use a chemical to remove the finish. If the wood is unfinished, skip this step. However, if your furniture has any paint, varnish, or stain, it’s time to get rid of it. Sanding down the surface of the wood is an option that works for any finish. For shellac or lacquered wood, use a denatured alcohol instead of sanding. For polyurethane or paint, use a chemical stripper.^{[6]
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- Sanding: Work your way from 150-grit to 220-grit sandpaper to remove the finish in layers. Use an orbital sander for tabletops of flat surfaces, or sheets of sandpaper for uneven surfaces.
- Denatured alcohol: Put on gloves and wipe the wood down using denatured alcohol. Scrub by hand and then rinse the alcohol off. Dry the wood by hand with a cloth.
- Chemical stripper: Purchase a chemical stripping agent and throw some gloves on. Follow the instructions to apply the stripper, wait, and then scrub the stripping agent off.

5

Re-treat any remaining stains.

If you still see any stains, repeat the treatment and stripping process. Depending on how deep the wood stain goes, you may still see water damage. With the finish gone, you may have an easier time lifting the stain up by treating and stripping the wood once more.^{[7]
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- This is totally optional. If the stain is mostly gone and you plan on painting or staining the wood anyway, it’s probably fine.

6

Fill in gaps or cracks.

Use auto body filler to fill in any missing material. Follow the instructions on the label to mix and prepare it. Then, apply the filler to any cracks or gaps in the wood. Use a gloved finger to work it into the opening, or use a putty knife to work it into gouges in flatter surfaces.^{[8]
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- Keep adding filler until the gap is full. If the putty is uneven, flatten it out with the edge of your putty knife. Continue scraping the surface until the putty is even with the wood.
- Putty filler typically dries in roughly 30 minutes, but refer to the instructions on your filler.
- This is totally optional. If you don’t mind the damage or you think the cracks or damage add a little character, you’re free to leave them.
- There are wood fillers out there that work the same way, but a lot of people swear by the auto body stuff.

7

Sand the wood.

Use an orbital sander or sandpaper to make the wood smooth. Start with a higher grit sandpaper, like 220-grit, and work your way down to a finer grit, like 100-grit. Sand in the direction of the grain repeatedly until the wood is smooth to the touch.^{[9]
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- This is mandatory if you’re going to apply any lacquer, stain, varnish, or paint.
- Sanding will also help wear away the surface and minimize the look of the stain.

8

Re-glue any loose joints.

If the furniture is shaky, now is the time to repair it. If the joint comes open easily, remove it, apply wood glue, and reassemble the joint by hand. If you’ve got two sections that sit flush together, apply the wood glue and use clamps to force the pieces together. If the joint doesn’t come apart, brush the seam with wood glue and a paintbrush.^{[10]
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- Wait 24 hours for the glue to fully dry before proceeding.
- If the joint is just slightly unsound but the furniture is otherwise holding up just fine, don’t worry about.

9

Stain or paint the wood.

Apply whichever finish you’d like based on your personal preference. Opt for a wood stain if you want a more natural look, or paint the furniture to give it an entirely new vibe. Put a dropcloth down, grab a brush or roller and a paint tray, and coat your furniture in the stain or paint. Wait for the furniture to dry and then apply 2-3 additional coats until you achieve the opacity you’re looking for.^{[11]
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- If the stain is still visible and you really want to cover it up, painting the wood is probably better than staining it.
- Use a stain or paint that closely resembles the rest of the wood to touch up small spots, or stain and paint the entire item to ensure you have a uniform look.

10

Varnish the wood to seal it.

Coat the stain or paint in varnish to protect it from damage. Varnish is optional, but it’ll go a long way towards preserving the paint or stain you’ve applied. You can even apply varnish to unfinished wood just to prevent splinters and preserve the furniture. Apply varnish to the entire item with a roller or a paintbrush.^{[12]
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- Polyurethane is probably the most popular varnish out there, but there are also oil-based finishes that are mainly designed for flooring. There are also natural resins, which function like varnish.

Warnings

Put on gloves, long sleeves, and a dust mask if you’re working with mineral spirits or oxalic acid.^{[14]
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