How to Give a File Cabinet a Makeover

Last Updated: September 20, 2022

Sure, you need a file cabinet to hold your paperwork, but that doesn't mean it has to be boring, basic, and ugly. We'll show you how some budget-friendly DIYs that you can use to revamp your file cabinet and make it a real showpiece!

Method 1

Method 1 of 4:

Using Spray Paint

1
Remove the drawers from the cabinet. Then, remove the exterior hardware (handles, lock cylinders, etc.).
- If you have difficulty removing the hardware, you may simply mask the hardware prior to painting.
- The cabinet and drawers will have to be hand-sanded around any hardware that is left in place.
2
Remove any stickers or labels. WD-40 and a razor blade work very well for this.
- Spray some WD-40 directly onto the sticker and let it stand for a few minutes.
- Then, carefully use a razor blade or something else that will scrape the sticker away.
- Wipe away the excess WD-40 with an old cloth or paper towel.
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3
Sand chipped paint to smooth the surface. If there is chipped paint, sand the chipped area with 220 grit sandpaper until it feathers into the remaining paint.
- There is no need to strip the cabinet of all paint.
- Once you have sanded the chipped areas, use fine or very fine steel wool to rub down all exterior surfaces of the cabinet and drawers.
- This will flatten the glossy surface and make the paint adhere better.
4
Wipe the entire cabinet down to prepare for priming. Wipe the surfaces of your cabinet clean with household window cleaner.
- This will remove any oily surface residue.
- Do it twice, then wipe it dry with a clean paper towel.
5
Apply your primer coat to create a surface for painting. Make sure you are painting in a very well-ventilated area, and start by painting the drawers.
- Set the drawers face up on a garage floor, patio, etc.
- Be sure the surface is protected with newspaper, cardboard or other cover.
- Note: Use ONLY spray enamel. Do not use a lacquer! Lacquer will eat up anything in its path, except other lacquer. Enamel is a safe bet over nearly any paint.
- To be sure, spray a test area that will not be exposed when finished.
6
Spray a light coat of primer to start. Mask any hardware that hasn't been removed.
- Use white or gray as this will make the final color more vivid.
- Recoat with primer within the time indicated on the can.
- Most enamels must be recoated within an hour.
- Otherwise, you will have to wait until the following day.
- Do not try to lay down one thick coat, because the primer will run and take a long time to dry.
- Spray all drawers then set them aside to make room for the cabinet.
7
Spray the cabinet with a very light coat of primer. Spray the sides of the cabinet lightly because you will be painting vertical surfaces and the paint is more likely to run.
- Very light coats dry fast and can be recoated within a few minutes.
- Allow about five minutes between very light coats so the paint has a chance to set.
- This may require about four or five very light coats. Be patient!
- You may apply a slightly heavier coat to the top of the cabinet, as you will be painting a flat, horizontal surface. This is similar to painting the drawer faces.
8
Let the cabinet dry before painting a color top coat. Allow the cabinet and drawers to dry the amount of time recommended on the spray can before applying your color top coat.
- If you create a design using masking tape, let the primer dry for at least 24 hrs. before taping, or the paint will peel when you remove the tape.
9
Apply your top coat in several light coats, as with the primer. Don’t worry about the primer coat showing through after the first couple of coats.
- You may be tempted to go back and “fill in the blanks” with a heavier coat, but do not do that. It will ruin everything you have done up to this point.
- Too heavy of a coat may cause the paint to “crinkle” and create a big mess, so be patient.
- Be sure to hold the spray can about 10 inches (25.4 cm) from the surface as you spray, and make smooth passes from end to end.
- Do not paint in a random zig-zag pattern or it will be difficult to get an even finish.
- Several coats will be required, so be sure to have plenty of paint.
10
Replace the hardware. When the paint has dried, usually after 24 hours, carefully replace the hardware.
- You now have a freshly made-over cabinet!
- You can replace the “U” shaped handle on the drawer with two decorative knobs, if you like.
- Be creative! Paint additional designs on your cabinet either by hand or by using your favorite stencils.
- You may choose to paint each drawer a different color. You can even personalize each drawer!

Method 2

Method 2 of 4:

Using Brush or Roller Paint

1
Remove the drawers from the cabinet. Then, remove the exterior hardware (handles, lock cylinders, etc.).
- If you have difficulty removing the hardware, you may simply mask the hardware prior to painting.
- The cabinet and drawers will have to be hand-sanded around any hardware that is left in place.
2
Remove any stickers or labels. WD-40 and a razor blade work very well for this.
- Spray some WD-40 directly onto the sticker and let it stand for a few minutes.
- Then, carefully use a razor blade or something else that will scrape the sticker away.
- Wipe away the excess WD-40 with an old cloth or paper towel.
3
Sand chipped paint to smooth the surface. If there is chipped paint, sand the chipped area with 220 grit sandpaper until it feathers into the remaining paint.
- There is no need to strip the cabinet of all paint.
- Once you have sanded the chipped areas, use fine or very fine steel wool to rub down all exterior surfaces of the cabinet and drawers.
- This will flatten the glossy surface and make the paint adhere better.
4
Wipe the entire cabinet down to prepare for priming. Wipe the surfaces of your cabinet clean with household window cleaner.
- This will remove any oily surface residue.
- Do it twice, then wipe it dry with a clean paper towel.
5
Apply your primer coat to create a surface for painting. Make sure you are painting in a very well-ventilated area, and start by painting the drawers.
- Set the drawers face up on a garage floor, patio, etc.
- Be sure the surface is protected with newspaper, cardboard or other cover.
- Note: Use ONLY spray enamel. Do not use a lacquer! Lacquer will eat up anything in its path, except other lacquer. Enamel is a safe bet over nearly any paint.
- To be sure, spray a test area that will not be exposed when finished.
6
Spray a light coat of primer to start. Mask any hardware that hasn't been removed.
- Use white or gray as this will make the final color more vivid.
- Recoat with primer within the time indicated on the can.
- Most enamels must be recoated within an hour.
- Otherwise, you will have to wait until the following day.
- Do not try to lay down one thick coat, because the primer will run and take a long time to dry.
- Spray all drawers then set them aside to make room for the cabinet.
7
Spray the cabinet with a very light coat of primer. Spray the sides of the cabinet lightly because you will be painting vertical surfaces and the paint is more likely to run.
- Very light coats dry fast and can be recoated within a few minutes.
- Allow about five minutes between very light coats so the paint has a chance to set.
- This may require about four or five very light coats. Be patient!
- You may apply a slightly heavier coat to the top of the cabinet, as you will be painting a flat, horizontal surface. This is similar to painting the drawer faces.
8
Let the cabinet dry before painting a color top coat. Allow the cabinet and drawers to dry the amount of time recommended on the spray can before applying your color top coat.
- If you create a design using masking tape, let the primer dry for at least 24 hrs. before taping, or the paint will peel when you remove the tape.
9
Use a gloss or semi-gloss latex or acrylic based paint. Flat paints have a “dusty” finish and do not clean as well if the surface gets dirty in the future.
- For a high-use item like a file cabinet, it is best to use a paint that can be easily cleaned in the future.
10
Brush or roll on your paint. Apply two light-to-medium coats of paint rather than one heavy coat.
- Runs or drips can easily be brushed out while paint is still wet.
- This type of paint usually cleans well with soap and water.
11
Wait for the paint to dry. Wait until paint is dry to add different colors or to paint designs over the final coat.
- Using a roller adds an interesting texture to the paint.
- Replace the hardware or change it to something completely different depending on the look you are trying to achieve.

Method 3

Method 3 of 4:

Using Self-Adhesive Contact/Shelf Paper

1
Choose your paper. Using paper is a simple, but fun way to makeover your file cabinets.
- Shelf paper or contact paper is usually made of vinyl and not paper.
- Be sure to choose vinyl if you come across both types as it is more durable and is easier to clean.
- The surfaces to which you will apply the contact paper should be dent-free, or the finished project will not look good. The exterior hardware MUST be removed in order for the paper to apply smoothly.
2
Measure the width and height of the drawer face. With the drawer sitting face up, measure the width and height of the drawer face.
- Most contact paper has a “criss-cross” grid on the back side.
- This helps you cut straight lines. They are usually ½” or 1” squares.
3
Cut the contact paper to size. Cut a piece of contact paper about one inch larger than each measurement.
- Peel back about one inch of the backing paper to expose the adhesive on the paper.
- Do this along the “long” edge of the paper.
4
Align and place the paper on the drawer. Carefully align the exposed edge along the corresponding edge of the drawer face with about a half-inch overhang.
- Carefully run your finger over the paper to stick it down to the drawer. Make sure the paper does not wrinkle while you do this.
- Slowly peel back about ½” of backing paper at a time as you carefully stick the paper to the drawer surface.
- Do this in very small segments to reduce the risk of bubbles and wrinkles.
- Continue this process until the entire surface is covered.
- It is recommended that you “prime” a vinyl surface with a solid white contact paper. Otherwise, the wood-grain pattern will show through if you are using a light-colored pattern.
5
Trim off the excess and correct any misapplications. Use a razor blade or sharp utility knife to trim off the excess. You can use the outer edges of the drawer as a natural straight-edge to get a clean, straight cut.
- If you get a wrinkle, be very careful if you peel the paper off the drawer. Vinyl stretches and it may not re-apply correctly.
- If this happens, you can cut away the bad piece and replace it with a new one. Use a straight-edge to make your cut so it will be straight.
- If you get air bubbles or pockets under the paper, use the sharp corner of a razor blade or the sharp tip of a utility knife to pierce the bubble and release the air. It should then flatten out nicely.
- Repeat this method for all surfaces. Do one surface at a time on the cabinet and do not try to completely wrap the cabinet with one piece.
6
Add some extra decoration for a personal touch. Cut out decorative shapes with a contrasting color of contact paper and apply it to the newly covered surfaces.
- You may also get pre-cut letters and shapes to personalize your cabinet.

Method 4

Method 4 of 4:

Using The Real Wood

1
Do not sand and re-stain wood cabinets. If you are giving a wood cabinet a makeover, it is not recommended to sand and re-stain wood cabinets.
- This is because if the wood is thoroughly sealed, it will not absorb new stain very well. This will result in a blotchy finish.
- If you are simply applying a new clear coat, remove all exterior hardware and clean the cabinet and drawers by buffing with very fine steel wool.
- Wipe away all the dust and follow the same procedure as painting metal cabinets.
2
Use a “primer” sheet of solid white contact paper so the grain will not show through your final pattern.
- Wood can be made over the same way as metal when painting or using contact paper.
3
Choose a base color to contrast with the top coat. White, black or gray are common choices.
- Paint one thin coat of the base color that just covers the surface and let it dry until tacky to the touch.
- This requires two contrasting paint colors and must be brushed. Acrylic paint works best.
4
Apply a thin coat of the top coat color over the tacky base coat. Let the base coat show through in streaks by completely brushing out the top coat of paint.
- Use your own judgment on how much base you want to show through.
- Sometimes, since the base coat is tacky when applying the top coat, the different phases of drying will create a wrinkled or distressed appearance of an antique piece of furniture.
- Allow the paint to dry thoroughly before replacing the hardware and using the cabinet.

Warnings

Be sure the surface of a wood cabinet is actually real wood and not a wood-grain vinyl laminate. You cannot sand this type of surface and paint peels very easily, so painting is not recommended. If you have a vinyl laminate, only the contact paper method is feasible.

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Things You May Need

Phillips and flat head screwdrivers (to remove cabinet hardware)
Painter’s tape
Paper towels or old cloth
Spray enamel (If repainting) in your choice of color(s) and primer (white or gray)
#0000 (very fine) steel wool
220 grit sandpaper
Mineral spirits
Vinyl peel-and-stick shelf paper (if covering cabinet) in choice of pattern/color
Power sander (optional)
Miscellaneous items to be addressed throughout tutorial