Scottish cuisine

Scottish cuisine encompasses the cooking styles, traditions and recipes associated with Scotland. It has distinctive attributes and recipes of its own, but also shares much with other British and wider European cuisine as a result of local, regional, and continental influences—both ancient and modern.

Scotland's natural larder of vegetables, fruit, oats, fish and other seafood, dairy products and game is the chief factor in traditional Scottish cooking, with a high reliance on simplicity, without the use of rare, and historically expensive, spices found abroad.

History

Scotland, with its temperate climate and abundance of indigenous game species, has provided food for its inhabitants for millennia. The wealth of seafood available on and off the coasts provided the earliest settlers with sustenance. Agriculture was introduced, and primitive oats quickly became the staple.[1]

Medieval

From the journeyman down to the lowest cottar, meat was an expensive commodity, and would be consumed rarely. For the lower echelons of mediaeval Scots, it was the products of their animals rather than the beasts themselves which provided nourishment.

This is evident today in traditional Scots fare, with its emphasis on dairy produce. A typical meal in medieval Scotland consisted of a pottage of herbs and roots (and when available some meat, usually seafood, or stock for flavouring), with bread and eggs, cheese or kelp when possible.

Scotland was a feudal state for the greater part of the second millennium. This put certain restrictions on what one was allowed to hunt, therefore to eat. In the halls of the great men of the realm, one could expect venison, boar, various fowl and songbirds, expensive spices (pepper, cloves, cinnamon, etc.), and the meats of domesticated species.

Before Sir Walter Raleigh's introduction of the potato to the British Isles, the Scots' main source of carbohydrate was bread made from oats or barley. Wheat was generally difficult to grow because of the damp climate. Food thrift was evident from the earliest times, with excavated middens displaying little evidence of anything but the toughest bones. All parts of an animal were used.

The mobile nature of Scots society required food that should not spoil quickly. It was common to carry a small bag of oatmeal that could be transformed into a basic porridge or oatcakes using a girdle (griddle). It is thought that Scotland's national dish, haggis, originated in a similar way: A small amount of offal or low-quality meat, carried in the most inexpensive bag available, a sheep or pig's stomach. It has also been suggested that this dish was introduced by Norse invaders who were attempting to preserve their food during the long journey from Scandinavia.[2]

Early Modern period

During the Early Modern period, French cuisine played a role in Scottish cookery due to cultural exchanges brought about by the "Auld Alliance".[3] When Mary, Queen of Scots returned to Scotland, she brought an entourage of French staff who revolutionised Scots cooking and created some of Scotland's unique food terminology. These terms include Ashet (assiette), a large platter;[4] Cannel (cannelle), cinnamon; Collop (escalope); Gigot, French for a leg of mutton;[4] Howtowdie (hétoudeau), a boiling fowl in Old French;[4] Syboe (ciboule), spring onion.[5]

18th and 19th centuries

With the growth of sporting estates and the advent of land enclosure in the 18th century, harvesting Scotland's larder became an industry. The railways further expanded the scope of the market, with Scots grouse at a premium (as today) on English menus shortly after the Glorious Twelfth.

In the 19th century, Charlotte, Lady Clark of Tillypronie collected recipes throughout her life by asking society hostesses or cooks, and then testing them for herself at Tillypronie (Aberdeenshire). These were published posthumously in 1909 as The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie.[6][7][8][9]

20th and 21st centuries

The availability of certain foodstuffs in Scotland, in common with the other parts of the United Kingdom, suffered during the 20th century. Rationing during the two World Wars, as well as large-scale industrial agriculture, limited the diversity of food available to the public. Imports from the British Empire and beyond did, however, introduce new foods to the Scottish public.

During the 19th and 20th centuries there was large-scale immigration to Scotland from Italy, and later from the Middle East, India, and Pakistan. These cultures have influenced Scots cooking dramatically. The Italians reintroduced the standard of fresh produce, and the later comers introduced spice. With the enlargement of the European Union in the early years of the 21st century, there has been an increase in the population of Eastern European descent, from Poland in particular. A number of speciality restaurants and delicatessens catering for the various new immigrants have opened in the larger towns and cities.

Dishes and foods

These dishes and foods are traditional to or originate in Scotland.

Cereals

Soups

  • Cullen skink—a thick soup made of smoked haddock, potato and onion
  • Baud breehare broth
  • Cock-a-leekie soup—leeks, peppered chicken stock, often with rice or barley
  • Game soup—a soup made of meat products found in game
  • Hairst bree (or hotch potch)—one-pot dish, usually with lamb or mutton, seasonal vegetables
  • Partan bree—seafood soup with crab and rice
  • Powsowdie—a Scottish sheep's heid (head) broth or soup
  • Scotch broth—soup with barley, lamb or mutton, and root vegetables

Fish and seafood

Meat, poultry and game

Vegetables

Fruits

Dairy

Puddings and desserts

Cakes, breads and confectionery

Preserves and spreads

Drinks

Alcoholic

Non-alcoholic

Restaurants

In recent years Haggis pakoras have become popular in Indian restaurants.[14]

Fast food

Scotland's reputation for coronary and related diet-based diseases is a result of the wide consumption of fast food since the latter part of the 20th century. Fish and chip shops remain extremely popular, and indeed the battered and fried haggis supper remains a favourite. In the area around Edinburgh, the most popular condiment for chip shop meals is "salt and sauce", the sauce element consisting of brown sauce thinned with water and vinegar. However in Glasgow, and elsewhere, chippy sauce is unknown and ketchup or salt and vinegar are preferred, prompting light-hearted debate on the merits of the options among the cities' residents, who tend to find the alternative a baffling concept.[15][16][17][18]

Outlets selling pizzas, kebabs, pakoras and other convenience foodstuffs have also become increasingly popular, with an extreme example of this style of food being the Munchy box.[19]

In addition to independent fast-food outlets, in the 1960s American-style burger bars and other restaurants such as Wimpy were introduced, and in the 1980s, McDonald's, Burger King, Pizza Hut and Kentucky Fried Chicken appeared in Scotland, followed by a large number of Subway franchises in the early 21st century. Branches of Greggs offering cakes, pastries and sandwiches are also very commonly found on the high streets of Scotland, often alongside smaller competing bakeries.

Chefs

See also

Notes and references

  1. "Scotland's Traditional Cuisine – a brief overview", Taste of Scotland
  2. "Haggis History". MacSweens of Edinburgh. Archived from the original on 4 September 2006. Retrieved 23 October 2006.
  3. Gail Kilgore. "The Auld Alliance and its Influence on Scottish Cuisine". Retrieved 29 July 2006.
  4. Brown, Catherine (1989). Chapter 9: "Culinary Interchange". In: Scottish Cookery. Glasgow: Richard Drew Publishing. ISBN 0-86267-248-1.
  5. "Dictionary of the Scots Language :: SND :: Sybow n."
  6. Frere, Catherine Frances (editor). (1909) The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie. London: Constable and Company. OCLC 752897816.
  7. Woolf, Virginia (25 November 1909). "The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie". Times Literary Supplement.
  8. Anon (27 November 1909). "The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie". The Spectator. p. 25. Retrieved 8 December 2014.
  9. Holt, Geraldene. "Essays and Introductions". Retrieved 8 December 2014.
  10. MacIntosh, John (1894). Ayrshire Nights Entertainments: A Descriptive Guide to the History, Traditions, Antiquities, ect. of the County of Ayr. Kilmarnock. p. 265.
  11. Off the Chain: Notes and Essays from the West Highlands. Palmer. 1868.
  12. Elizabeth, Hinds. "Classic Scottish Cakes". Cake Baker. Retrieved 19 November 2011.
  13. "Dundee Recipe Is Another Standby for the Holidays". The Evening Independent. St. Petersburg, FL. 13 November 1936. p. 13. Retrieved 19 November 2011.
  14. Shaheen (27 January 2010). "Mushroom haggis pakoras with curried neep chips". Allotment2Kitchen. Retrieved 23 August 2015.
  15. "Scotland's sauce wars: Charge for ketchup in Edinburgh leaves customer from Glasgow with chip on shoulder". The Independent. 27 August 2013. Retrieved 22 March 2019.
  16. "Glasgow chippies get ready for the 'salt and sauce' Scottish Cup Final". Daily Record. 18 April 2012. Retrieved 22 March 2019.
  17. "Salt 'n' sauce? Capital chippy sauce export bid". Edinburgh Evening News. 6 April 2013. Retrieved 22 March 2019.
  18. "Karen Gillan wants Scottish chip sauce – so, what is it?". Radio Times. 18 June 2015. Retrieved 22 March 2019.
  19. "What is a Munchy Box?". 23x.net. 8 June 2008. Retrieved 27 October 2009.

Further reading

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